An expat Californian building a new life via the tango in Buenos Aires since 2003, including information on learning the tango and where to dance it in Buenos Aires.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Where Have All the Theaters Gone?
The famous corner of San Juan y Boedo still bustles after San Lorenzo wins a football game and during the Murgas.
But here in the old Barrio de Tango, it used to be where the elite meet and greet.
The famous cafe on the corner, Esquina Homero Manzi, was the in place to have coffee after going to the theater and then dancing a half a block away in what is now Rodo, a big appliance store. The only sign of the building's old glory days is a large golden angel plaque high up on the back wall, so out of place now in this big bare white space full of refrigerators and vacuum cleaners.
A few decades ago, instead of shorts and flipflops, beautiful people wearing suits and furs came here to dance tango and hear the best live orchestras. And then went to the corner to hang out with Homero Manzi, the famous composer of Sur, and other tango notables.
Two blocks down Boedo, is the Coto supermarket where we shop. I don't know what it was before, but if you stand back you can see it once was a gorgeous elaborate building like so many that have vanished from old Buenos Aires.
I lament that my barrio has no cine, but the building is still there, just a half block away; now it's an evangelical revival temple. Here you can see it from my terrace. Sometimes I can hear the hymn singing on Sundays. But when I want to catch a film, I have a ways to go.
I can only imagine what it used to be like living in Boedo, el barrio de tango.