After eleven years living, dancing, teaching tango, and writing in Buenos Aires, I came home to L.A. in 2014, where I'm reconstructing my life.
Sunday, December 02, 2007
Teatro Verdi En La Boca
Built by Italian immigrants, Caruso performed there as well as other stars of opera, theater, and music. Now it's in constant use for classes in dance, music, yoga, acting, and for political rallies, events, concerts, and milongas. But it's a ruin of what it once was.
When the photo (above) of the facade was taken, the theater was already 125 years old. In the last four years it has deteriorated even more. Ruben used to dance Chamame there 30 years ago, and the only improvement he noticed when we went last week was the rotten wood floor had been replaced with tile.
Last Wednesday night, Ruben and I went to hear the hot new young orchestra, Fervor de Buenos Aires.
Another orchestra like Orquesta Típica Fernandez Fierro (seen playing on the streets of San Telmo). Pianist Javier Arias directs Fervor de Buenos Aires (name inspired by Borges) that plays in the style of Di Sarli.
We arrived early, I incredulous over the beautiful art nouveau lobby, while two tango classes were in progress under the auspices of Pedro "El Indio." My jaw dropped inside the hall at the colorful swirling art nouveau boxes on the three sides of the proscenium.
There was an occasional viejito, but most of the many dancers were young. Ok, so I didn't like the classes of the Dreaded 8-Count Basic with low-volume DiSarli coming from the computer, nor afterward, how they all danced in the milonga.
But they were having fun. Mostly tourists, they were experiencing Tango in Buenos Aires and would never forget it.
The orchestra took the stage, the tourists danced in their sandals and tennis shoes, there was an over-abundance of youthful tango energy in the ancient crumbling theater. I liked it a lot.