After eleven years living, dancing, teaching tango, and writing in Buenos Aires, I came home to L.A. in 2014, where I'm reconstructing my life.
Wednesday, September 09, 2009
Ever since I started to dance tango way back when in Los Angeles, I had heard about tango in Rosario--mostly I suppose because at that time Rosario's Orlando Paiva was the tango teacher in L.A.
So long overdue, Ruben and I decided to check out tango Rosario, and soon we were sitting on a comfortable bus for the short (4 hours) trip.
We left on a Sunday so as not to miss our favorite Buenos Aires milonga, Los Consagrados. And because we were invited to attend the Sunday night milonga, Las Chirusas, which is at the Cafe Flor, Mendoza 862.
A charming old house, Cafe Flor has an indoor area with a stage and an "outdoor" dance floor for smokers. Both floors are old decorative tile. The crowd was mostly young, and almost all the women held their left arms low and lower on the man's back. Because of our discussion on this after the Campeonato post (see comments), I was paying strict attention. I wish I could have taken photos, but restrained myself. (I feel another post on this topic coming on.)
What I enjoyed most about Las Chirusas was the music. Nothing special about the selections, all old-guard, but the sound was just perfect in the small room, and I heard new things in the old songs.
In between milongas, we took a long walk by the river, where Ruben looked for places to fish. Unfortunately it was cold, wet, and windy, so we gawked at Rosario's famous monument to the flag (huge and macho and built in the style of what I call Fascist architecture).
Monday night we taxied to La Buena Medida (Buenos Aires y La Rioja) for tango and malbec with our new friend from Las Chirusas, Hugo. The organizer, Hernan, was friendly and the ambiance in the old historical cafe was relaxed and fun. The floor was also old decorative tile, and a bit heavy in all the humidity. I wished I had worn my smooth leather soled CIF's from the night before.
BTW, the "milongas" of Rosario are very informal, and the cabeceo almost unknown.
And so we had our two nights of Tango Rosario. Next time I want to plan to be there on a Tuesday, when Las Chirusas has a big milonga at the Ex-cine Carlos Gardel (Ov. Lagos 790), which has a wood floor, is large and I hear, gorgeous.
View from our lovely room at the Urquiza Apart Hotel.